All photos: Gerow

Once you take learned the basics of installing a 1X drivetrain, there are a host of details to fine-tuning and maintaining it. Eventually, information technology volition beginning making annoying clicking sounds, or skipping out of the gear yous select. From the get-go day a new drivetrain is installed until it is recycled, pieces stretch, loosen, wear, and become bent. The troubleshooting guide below will accept you through some common shifting issues, followed by their most likely causes and solutions.

We will stick to problems that plague rear derailleurs, as 1X setups are common on most modern mountain bikes. For older bikes with front derailleur problems, the solution is quite simple: Remove the front derailleur and supervene upon the chainrings with a single 1X-specific ring and wide range cassette. Nail! You just cut your drivetrain issues in half.

Drivetrain definitions

In all seriousness, we need to define a few fundamental terms before starting. If y'all already know bicycle drivetrain classification you tin can skip ahead to the troubleshooting section.

Low limit spiral

The depression limit spiral adjusts the limit of how far a derailleur can motion toward the lowest gear. The lowest gear is the big spinny i used to climb steep stuff, and it is located nearest the spokes.

The shift cablevision pulls against the derailleur's spring to shift into lower gears and releases cable tension to allow the same spring to pull the derailleur into higher gears. When you shift into the lowest gear you are putting straight pressure on the derailleur via cablevision tension, and the limit screw is what keeps it from going too far and falling off the cassette. The ideal position for this limit is where information technology stops the derailleur'southward upper pulley (a.chiliad.a. jockey wheel) straight below the everyman gear and does not let it to go any farther.

High limit screw

The loftier limit screw adjusts the limit of how far a derailleur can move toward the highest gear. The highest gear is the piddling i near the bicycle'southward seat-stay and chain-stay junction. Only like the lowest gear, the ideal limit aligning places the derailleur'south upper caster directly in line with the highest gear, preventing the chain from shifting off of the cassette and into the frame.

B screw

The B spiral (a.chiliad.a. body-bending screw) adjusts the amount of space between the upper pulley and the everyman gear, which affects concatenation wrap and low gear shifting.

Concatenation wrap is the amount of concatenation that interacts with whatever given cog in the cassette, from the signal the chain kickoff touches the cog until it leaves on its way to the chainring.

Nigh of the time a bike will shift properly with the upper caster wheel 5-6mm away from the lowest cog. Turn the B spiral clockwise to make the gap larger, and counterclockwise to shut the gap.

Butt adjusters

On modern mount wheel shifters, barrel adjusters are mounted on the shifter, correct where the cable housing exits the shifter trunk. They substantially work like bolts that the cablevision housing sits against, assuasive effective length adjustment of the cable housing. The shift cable passes through the hollow middle of the barrel adjuster.

Barrel adjusters can be made of plastic or metal, and are usually black or polished alloy in color. On apartment-bar, index-shifters (standard on all modern mountain bikes), they are always located where the shift housing exits the shifter.

Turning the adjuster counterclockwise (from a passenger'due south perspective) lengthens the cable housing slightly, which increases the tension on the cable. This added cable tension helps move the derailleur toward the lower gears. Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise shortens the cable housing, lowers cablevision tension, and allows the derailleur's spring to pull toward the higher gears.

When cable tension is properly balanced the chain will stay in the selected gear, and will move upwardly and down the cassette with equal ease, speed, and accuracy.

Derailleur troubleshooting

Ok, now we dig into the greasy problems.

This concatenation is In the low and slow gear.

My chain is falling off the largest cog of my cassette, and into my spokes

Likely the issue is either a bent derailleur hanger or the depression limit screw needs to exist adjusted.

  • Outset, endeavor to wiggle the cassette, so the derailleur and hanger to make sure everything is tight. If any of these components are loose your bicycle will not shift properly, and you will not exist able to make accurate adjustments. Too, make sure the hub is properly seated in the dropouts (QR only) and that the skewer or through-beam is tight.
  • If you have not recently changed or adjusted your drivetrain and your chain is falling off into the spokes, your derailleur hanger is most likely bent inward. If y'all take a spare hanger, this is its time to shine. If you are on the trail you can try to curve the hanger back by hand or proceed your ride using higher gears to keep it from falling into the spokes. If y'all endeavour to bend it dorsum you volition risk breaking the hanger, and unless it is extremely bent you volition exist better off shifting into a loftier enough gear to keep the concatenation on and finishing your ride.

The derailleur hanger is a piece of aluminum bolted to your frame that your derailleur is and so mounted on. Hangers are unique to your frame, and it is a good thought to buy a spare when yous buy a new frame. A hanger separates the derailleur from the frame and is designed to bend or interruption on affect, rather than damaging your frame or derailleur. Some steel frames, like the blueish one pictured above, have integrated derailleur hangers, which can be straightened but non replaced.

  • If your derailleur hanger is directly y'all may need to adjust your low limit screw to stop the derailleur just beneath the largest cog. Turn the low limit spiral clockwise roughly half of a revolution, then gently plough the pedals to run into if the chain stays put on the lowest cog. If y'all are using a bike-stand this will be far easier, as you can push the derailleur into the lowest gear past hand, and accommodate the limit screw precisely, while looking at the cog and caster. If you brand incremental adjustments and hand pedal the drivetrain gently and slowly to check the alignment you lot can catch the chain before it falls off the cogs again, and adjust further equally needed. On the trail, you can sometimes use a tree co-operative or a friend as a bike stand. Your own cervix likewise works as a momentary bike stand, but I volition let you figure that one out if you are so inclined.

My chain is falling off the smallest cog and getting stuck between the frame and the cassette

The concatenation is on the high, sprinty cog.

Once again, this is likely due to a bent hanger, or the high limit screw needs to be adapted.

  • Equally above, make sure your derailleur, hanger, and cassette are tight, and your bicycle is properly seated and tight.
  • If you accept not recently inverse or adjusted your drivetrain and your chain is falling off toward the frame, your derailleur hanger is most probable aptitude outward. If you accept a spare hanger, this is its day of glory. Out on the trail, you can effort to bend the hanger back by manus or continue your ride using lower gears to go on information technology from falling off betwixt the cassette and frame. If you try to bend it dorsum you will hazard breaking the hanger, and unless it is extremely aptitude you will be better off shifting into a low enough gear to keep the chain on and finishing your ride.
  • If your derailleur hanger is straight y'all may need to arrange your high limit screw to stop the derailleur just below the smallest cog. Turn the high limit spiral clockwise roughly half of a revolution, then gently plough the pedals to run across if the chain stays put on the highest cog. If yous are using a bike-stand this volition exist far easier, equally yous tin let the derailleur'due south spring pull it toward the frame while adjusting the limit screw precisely below the cog. You may need to push the derailleur slightly inwards while making the adjustment to make it easier to turn the screw. If you lot make incremental adjustments and mitt pedal the drivetrain gently and slowly to check the alignment yous can catch the chain before it falls off the cogs over again, and adapt further every bit needed.  On the trail, a tree branch or friend'southward arms can be a great substitute bike stand and a nice fashion to proceed your riding buddies warm while you wrench.

Paint damage from a aptitude derailleur hanger that caused the chain to driblet between the frame and cassette.

My shifting is tiresome, up and downwards the cassette, and sometimes I take to shift by a gear and then back to information technology

Have you inverse your cables and housing recently? Often sluggish and reluctant shifts are due to debris buildup between the shift housing and the shift cable, kinks in the cable and/or housing, or worn out housing.

  • Equally higher up, make sure your derailleur, hanger, and cassette are tight, and your wheel is properly seated and tight.
  • If your shifting is generally slow or stilted you likely need to supplant your shifter cable and housing with a fresh set. Irresolute these bits is often a simple and quick fashion (internal routing aside) to make your drivetrain shift like new. For a detailed clarification on how to make the bandy, you can check out either this video from GMBN or this one from Seth's Bike Hacks.
  • If yous are on the trail and notice this kind of tedious or sticky shifting in that location are a couple things you can try. Beginning, await for kinks in the cable housing that may have occurred in a crash or when a stick flipped upwardly and twisted between things. If yous discover bends or kinks, gently reverse any acute angles to allow the cable pass more smoothly.
  • If yous are trailside and happen to have emergency chain lube (or any thin oil), you may be able to lube enough of the cablevision to get it to shift more than smoothly. If your bike has full continuous shift housing, meaning the housing goes all the manner from your shifter to the derailleur body without any exposed cable exterior the frame, shift into the highest gear, lube as much of the cablevision as you can, and then shift back and forth from the highest to the lowest gear. This may dislodge whatever is gumming things up and allow you to shift smoothly for the residue of the day. If your drivetrain uses segmented housing y'all can take this lube technique a step farther. First, shift the derailleur into the largest cog. So, without pedaling or letting the derailleur motion from the largest cog, shift all of the way to the highest gear. This will make the shift cablevision as loose as it can be without removing it from the derailleur's pinch bolt. From here yous may be able to remove segments if the cable housing, fully lube them, and slide them back and forth to clear debris.
  • Removing the derailleur cable from the pinch bolt while out on the trail can crusade problems, particularly if the cable is frayed or unwinding. Fortunately, there are not many cases where you lot would need to do so.
  • An excessively dirty drivetrain tin besides irksome down your shifting. Keeping your drivetrain clean and well lubricated will extend its performance in multiple means.

My shifting is slow going into harder (or easier) gears

Most often if your shifting is sluggish in i direction you tin can improve it by turning the barrel adjuster.

  • As e'er, brand sure all drivetrain components are tight, make clean, and properly lubricated.
  • If shifting is slower toward easier (lower) gears your shift cablevision is likely too loose. Turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise (from the passenger's perspective) by one-half revolution increments until the tension is balanced and your bike shifts perfectly.
  • If shifting is slower toward harder (college) gears your shift cable is likely too tight. Turn the barrel adjuster clockwise (from the rider'southward perspective) past one-half revolution increments until the tension is balanced and your wheel shifts perfectly.

My concatenation makes noise when I am in the lowest gear (largest cog)

Your upper derailleur pulley is likely too close to the cassette, and the B screw needs to exist adjusted.

  • If your derailleur was adjusted properly when the cycle was built, this consequence should only arise when you switch to a cassette with a larger low gear. If this happens "out of nowhere" your derailleur hanger may be bent forrard.
  • To adjust the derailleur trunk further away from the cassette, plow the B spiral clockwise until the upper pulley site 5-6mm from the largest cog.

The B screw adjusts the space betwixt the superlative pulley and the largest cog.

On some modern cassettes with large gear jumps, like Shimano's eleven-46 cassette, yous will demand to adjust the B screw further, adding space betwixt the upper pulley and the largest cog, in social club to make the final shift to the lowest gear possible. First, make the normal 5-6mm aligning. Then shift between the lowest ii gears, turning the B screw a total revolution until your derailleur shifts smoothly from one to the other.

The 9-tooth departure between the last ii cogs volition crave more than of a gap betwixt the largest cog and the upper pulley cycle in order to shift properly betwixt the two everyman gears.

I'chiliad getting a clicking sound when the concatenation jumps around between two gears

Often called "ghost shifting," this can be caused by a number of things.

  • Make sure all components of your drivetrain are tight, clean, and properly lubricated.
  • Plough the barrel adjuster a half revolution either direction to see if that solves the problem.
  • Your concatenation may be too long or have stretched over time. This video will assistance you properly measure your chain length.
  • You lot may take incompatible components. Tight tolerances are key to making drivetrain parts piece of work together.
  • Your derailleur hanger may exist slightly bent.
  • You lot may have debris in your cable housing and will need to replace it.
  • If yous take tried everything else, your drivetrain is likely worn and in need of some replacement components. Time to striking the wheel shop!

Chain jumps or slips when I pedal difficult

A jumping or slipping chain is often caused by a mis-measured chain, worn drivetrain components, or a strong chain link.

  • Your concatenation may exist too long or accept stretched over time. This video will aid you properly measure your concatenation length.
  • You may have a potent chain link. If you lot inspect your chain and find a stiff link y'all can hands loosen it by holding the adjacent links and gently applying lateral pressure to the stiff link to free up its plates. Do this as close as possible to the stiff link to avert angle other links.
  • Your chainring or cassette may be worn and in need of replacement. If yous recently replaced your chain and it is jumping all over the place this is an indication that your cassette or chainring need to be replaced as well.

This Blackness Locus made a fantastic bike stand up. Hardwood trees similar this one won't exist bothered by a little bike weight.

I've adjusted everything and my cycle still isn't shifting correctly

  • Some shifting systems crave dissimilar amounts of pressure level and speed applied to the shift paddle. If nothing else works, endeavor irresolute the speed and/or pressure yous utilize to the shift lever.
  • Worn parts somewhen don't work as well every bit they once did. The plastic gears inside your shifter wear out, chains stretch, gear teeth wear to "shark teeth," derailleur pulleys get crunchy and less responsive, springs end springing, and derailleur cages get bent out of whack. Some shifting issues can merely be remedied with new components.
  • Drivetrain parts are designed by skilled engineers to work with slap-up precision and tight tolerances. If your mix of components is non designed to piece of work together y'all will not be able to attain perfect shifting. For case, if you have a derailleur designed for a cassette with a maximum range of 11-42t and yous are running an xi-46t cassette, you will probable hear a lot of noise in the lower gears, amongst other issues.
  • Chains are far less expensive than cassettes. An inexpensive chain-wear tool will allow know exactly when it is time to swap the links, keeping your cassette in superlative shape as long as possible. For reference, I alter my chain roughly 4 times per season on my daily commuter, and a cassette typically lasts two or iii years.
  • Loose or worn pulley wheels tin greatly bear upon shifting. If your pulleys wobble, the teeth are worn, or the bearings/bushings are viscous you volition need to supplant them so the derailleur can properly practise its job.
  • Chainrings bolts occasionally piece of work loose. Along with all of the component tightening and placement checklists above, make sure your cranks and chainring bolts (or direct-mount lockring) are tight. Excessive movement from the chainring can cause poor shifting, dropped chains, and a host of other issues.
  • Some frames have more than flex than others, just as some riders are stronger than others. If you lot have a particularly flexy frame or are brute strong, or both, y'all can cause the frame to flex enough that your bicycle will shift or drib its chain. In this case, yous demand to merchandise out your frame for a stiffer i, or arctic out. The solution here depends on your budget.

If the to a higher place solutions don't fix your problem, your local mechanic certainly can.

Have you lot experienced shifting issues that are not listed above? Do you know of possible solutions we didn't mention? Please share them with u.s. in the comments.

For more rear gear goodness, check out this video on trailside derailleur hanger adjustment, and this 1 on how to employ a derailleur hanger alignment tool.